Aquariums

STEP 1 - LOCATION
STEP 2 - LIGHTING
STEP 3 - AERATION
STEP 4 - FILTRATION
STEP 5 - GRAVEL
STEP 6 - DECORATIONS
STEP 7 - THE WATER
STEP 8 - ADDING FISH
STEP 9 - MAINTENANCE

Want to keep fish? Well here's how.... Follow our step-by-step guide to setting up your aquarium.
The simplest definition of an aquarium is a container capable of holding water in which fish & other aquatic organisms can live over a long period of time. Aquariology is the study of keeping fish in an aquarium. It explores the reasons for keeping fish & requires a knowledge of the biological characteristics of fish, as well as of such aspects of their husbandry as feeding & nutrition, reproduction, water quality management, sources & control of stress, & disease control.

STEP 1

LOCATION
It is very important to choose the right place to put your aquarium. It is best to avoid 'high-traffic areas', such as hallways or near doors which are used alot as these are just areas where an accident is waiting to happen. You should try and keep your aquarium out of draughty areas and heating and air conditioning ducts. Changes in temperature can affect the aquarium's water quality and cause stress to your fish. Try and keep the aquarium out of direct sunlight too because the water could over heat and kill your fish and as well as that sunlight causes algae growth.
The aquarium should be placed on a level and very stable surface. It is best to place polystyrene sheets underneath. It should be near an electrical outlet to allow the filter, pump and lights to be plugged in.

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STEP 2

LIGHTING
An aquarium needs light-it is a valuable source of energy for the aquarium foliage and it enhances the brilliant of your fish. Natural light is alright but additional lighting would be recommended such as a lid or hood with a light. Aquarium covers or hood s also help reduce water evaporation.
There are two kinds of lighting you can choose for your aquarium-fluorescent lighting or incandescent lighting. Fluorescent bulbs are better because they give out more light and less heat, they emit less glare and they are also good for aquarium plants.

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STEP 3

AERATION
Oxygen must be available to all living things in your aquarium to enable them to live. To provide this oxygen supply, the water must keep circulating and there should be surface movement too.
In the case of a goldfish bowl, oxygenating tablets can be used but for anything bigger an air pump is needed to supply the necessary amount of oxygen. The term 'pump' isn't really fitting because the pump doesn't actually pump oxygen into the water but what it does do is create bubbles, which flow over, and break, the surface. Air-powered filters, air toys or ornaments, or 'air stone' bubblers create the bubbles. There is a wide range of air pumps available in our shop and our staff would be glad to help and advise you on the most suitable for your aquarium.

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STEP 4

FILTRATION
Waste solids-such as uneaten fish food, fish waste, and any kind of biological particles must be filtered from the water or they will break down and pollute the aquarium.

You have a few choices when it comes to filtering your aquarium's water. There are 3 main types of filtration:

Mechanical:
this type of filtration screens out floating particles from the water. Filter floss is an example of a method of mechanical filtration.

Chemical:
this removes colour-producing chemicals and odours from the water. Activated carbon is an example of a material used for chemical filtration.

Biological:
uses beneficial bacteria to convert poisonous substances not harmless ones.

As you have as choice with the type of filtration, you also have to choose the type of filter you want to use. There are four main types of filters:

Internal Filters:
As the name suggests these filters fit inside the aquarium. Water is drawn through the bottom of the filter media-usually sponges-by an electric pump. It is then pumped back into the water via the outlet or an attached spray bar. Internal filters are ideal for all sizes of tanks and are the most common and easiest to maintain.

Undergravel Filters:
Here the gravel itself is the filter medium. A special undergravel plate is placed on the bottom of the tank with an upright pipe. A pump draws water out of the gravel up the pipe, and filters it and passes it out.

Reverse Flow Filters:
This system combines both internal and undergravel filtration. The water is filtered by the internal filter before being pumped down the uplift tube and filtered again by the gravel.

External Filters:
External filters stand outside the tank. The water is drawn from the aquarium and filtered through one or more filtration media before being pumped back into the aquarium.

The following is a table of the Aquarium Pharmaceutical filtration products that we recommend in our shop:

• Removes colours,waste,odours Removes ammonia Removes nitrite
• Removes nitrate
• Ammo Chips *
• Ammo-Carb * *
• Activated Filter Carbon *
• Bio-Chem Zorb *
• Nitra-Zorb * * *

Ammo-Chips
If you wish to remove ammonia from fresh water, you should use AMMO-CHIPS ammonia removing filter chips.

Ammo-Carb
AMMO-CARB removes colours, odours, and waste as well as ammonia. AMMO-CARB is a combination of Activated Filter Carbon and Ammo-Chips.

Activated Filter Carbon
This is the most advanced and professional method of filtration available today. Each particle of activated of carbon is like a small sponge of pores and colours, odours and waste are attracted and trapped to these pores, creating beautiful, clean, clear water.

Bio-Chem Zorb
This is a pouch of ion exchange resins and super activated carbon that removes dissolved waste material, poisonous gases, and unwanted colour and odour from the water.

Nitra-Zorb
This gets rid of three unwanted chemicals from your aquarium water-ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION
Biological filtration is one of the most important functions in any aquarium and it can be quite confusing to understand, so here is a diagram to make it a little easier

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The worst thing you can do is add your fish straight into plain tap water. It will more than likely be filled with lots of dangerous chemicals that will be harmful to your fish. So make sure that your water is properly conditioned before you add any fish. The most common chemicals found in tap water are ammonia, chlorine, and chloramine and these can easily poison fish. Ammonia is the number one killer of fish in the aquarium.

You are also best to check your water pH levels before adding any fish. Different fish require different pH levels. Most freshwater fish are happy in water with a pH range of 6.8 to 7.2 but some are a little more particular. pH test kits and pH adjuster kits are available in the shop.

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Feeding:
Make sure you never over feed your fush. Feed once a day, a five minute meal. Your fish will only eat what they can consume in that time. Remove any uneaten food with the net. Uneaten food decays, polluting the water making it unsafe for your fish.Fish flakes are the most common fish food but there is a wide range of prepared, live and frozen foods available.

Water Condition:
You have to ensure that that the water is properly maintained- proper pH and hardess etc. Test your water regularly for pH, ammonia and nitrite.

Filter Maintenance:
Every month you should remove the sponge from the filter and wash it in the aquarium water. If you washed it under tap water all the beneficial bacteria would be killed. The filter sponge should be replaced every 12-18 months. One half should be replaced at a time so that there is always mature bacteria present in the filter.

Water Changes:
Every month you should do a partial change of water, say 20% and replace it with clean water that has already been treated and conditioned. Remember to test and adjust the water before you put it into the aquarium.

Hood, Stand and Aquarium Glass:
Over time, the outside of your aquarium may become dusty and covered in white 'scale'. There is a specially formulated aquarium cleaner available to clean away this dust and scale.

Algae Control:
Primarily, algae is very beneficial to fish but when it is not controlled, it can become very overgrown and unsightly. You can avoid this algae by keeping the aquarium out of direct sunlight. There is a wide range of products available for cleaning the algae away from the glass.

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