Semi Aquatics and Aquatics
(Red Ear Sliders, Painted Turtles, Snapping Turtles)
Nutrition All aquatics and semi-aquatics must eat under water. Commercially available floating food pellets may be used, so long as they are specifically for aquatic turtles. Most brands are equal with respect to nutritional value, but, my Red Ears favor Tetra-Reptomin Floating Food Sticks over other brands, and I have noticed, that this product clouds the water less than any of the others. That could be due to the fact that they eat it all , or it could be something in the formula. I’m not sure. Supplement food sticks with freeze dried krill for added protein. Once in a while, treat your pets to some shredded chicken or lean hamburger meat and they will be happypets.
Aquatics and Semi’s can be fed any type of lean meat, raw or cooked, so long that is is relatively low in fat. Many folks feed their turtles live goldfish. I don’t have the heart, but if you can stomach it, this type of diet is fine. Just be sure to supplement with some kind of vegetable supplement if you are using live fish as opposed to pellets as it’s primary diet source.
Housing An all glass aquarium filled half-height with water and a dry space to bask in. If you are only housing one turtle, a floating buoy is an inexpensive, easy way to provide for your turtles sunbathing. If you have more than one, they can not possibly all fit on the thing at once and you will find that the dominant turtle will hog the thing and the others will be missing out.
All turtles need several hours of basking time so this will not do. I found
a wonderful solution to the situation with this thing made
by Tetra called the "Viquarium". It’s a plastic land area
that fits 30 to 100 gallon tanks that you fill up with gravel.
The water flows through the gravel, and gets filtered through
a whisper filter attached to the unit, and comes out of a
cute little decorative waterfall. This filter is not good
enough to be the only source of water filtration, but it does
help keep the water flowing which is very important. Place
a hanging reflector lamp (basking lamp) approximately 2 feet
above the basking area.
The space will get hot, but turtles will regulate their body temperatures by moving around the land area or jumping into the water.
The most important key to keeping your turtles healthy and happy is to keep them clean. Filter water with a submersible canister type filter. They come is various brands and sizes designed for different sized tanks. Change filters once every three to four days and use a product called "Turtle Clean" in the water and you’ll see that you can go longer between full water changes.
We do complete water changes about once a week, but you will be able to determine by the smell and appearance of your tank how often it needs to be done. Keep in mind that water should be clear and odor free. A fresh swampy smell due to terrarium moss in the tank is okay, but any musty or foul smelling odor is not. There is also a product out there called the "Python" which is designed to make water changes easier. I’ve never tried it. If you have, let me know how it worked out.
Pairing Up Most turtles will get along with each other. (Semi-Aquatics with Semi-Aquatics, Aquatics with Aquatics) the exception to the rule is the Snapping Turtle. This feisty fellow is better kept alone is he is seriously territorial and likely to take out anyone infringing on his territory. Even amongst their own kind, some turtles may be fighters. I housed three Red Ears Turtles together for several years with no problems. Suddenly, the largest turtle became violent towards the middle one, and this kept up for several weeks. We eventually got him his own tank.
Some people keep goldfish and/or guppies in their turtle tanks. Supposedly, a well-fed turtle will leave these fish alone. Personally, I don’t trust it, but you can try it if you like. |